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WIZARDS SHINE MASTER POLISH & BREATHABLE SEALANT is a one step cleaner, polish and breathable paint sealant. It is recommended as a wax replacement, swirl mark remover or finishing glaze by hand or machine for the professional body shop technician as well as the average consumer. This polish contains a special polymer blend that provides an impressive high gloss on all types of paint: factory, custom, foreign and domestic. SHINE MASTER is safe and recommended for clear coats, stripes and decals. It also performs excellent on fiberglass, lexan, Plexiglas and other non-porous surfaces.
This unique formula is NOT water-soluble and won’t wash away like most hand glazes and waxes. Its waterproof UV barrier protects from hard water spotting, acid rain, sun fading and more.
SHINE MASTER is body shop recommended as the finishing step to the WIZARDS TURBO CUT and FINISH CUT buffing system. It contains no wax or free silicones and has been safely applied to freshly painted surfaces in shops for years.
SHINE MASTER’s ease of use, gloss, and durability truly makes it the professional’s first choice.
If you can use any type of swirl mark remover, hand glaze or wax you can use SHINE MASTER. Just remember to follow paint manufacturers’ recommended dry times and don’t rush the process.
You mean SHINE MASTER can be used instead of a wax, or a hand glaze?
Absolutely. SHINE MASTER can replace several products and provide excellent protection. Even though it is not a wax, it can be used as a wax replacement. Actually many professional shops recommend this product to their customers simply because it is easy to use, has an awesome gloss and customers love it. They always come back for more, and tell their friends.
If SHINE MASTER protects like a wax doesn’t it seal off the fresh paint? How does the paint dry?
Great question! SHINE MASTER is a breathable polymer sealant. What this means is that the protective qualities are in the plastic family but they are not a film former. It does not totally encase the finish. It provides a micro thin layer of polyethylene polymer that creates a shingling effect with the ability to protect from the environment, but still allows the solvents to escape. Another example would be like a teepee that lets the smoke out, but won’t let the rain in.
If it’s in the plastic family, and won’t wash away like hand glazes, how do you get it off, if you have to apply striping or do some paint work?
Not a problem at all. You don’t need a special product just to get it off.
Simply use any type of grease, wax or tar remover available at any paint jobber or retail store, with an automotive or paint department. The body shops generally use the regular pre-cleaner or solvent recommended by the paint manufacturers, or the WIZARDS POWER CLEAN all-purpose cleaner.
OK, that sounds great, what’s the best way to use it?
To use the SHINE MASTER be sure to shake the bottle before using, apply the product to the applicator and spread evenly onto a clean and cool surface. I like to use the BLUE WIZARDS hand pad. The hand pad allows you to apply the product evenly, it is gentle on the paint, and eliminates the possibility of pushing too hard with your fingers.
Couldn’t you do the same thing with a regular cloth?
Well, you certainly can use a cloth, but with the pad, you can do a better job. Some people will not hold their hand flat and they will be applying the product with their fingers. That’s not the right way to do it. With the pad, the pressure of application is spread over a larger area. If I am working on something that needs more polishing, like a scratched area or faded paint, I think a cloth will help to restore that area faster because most cloths are a little more aggressive.
Just about any type of cloth will work for the application; however you do want to use a small piece, folded to fit in your hand. That way you have more control and won’t be wasting a lot of product by soaking it up a big towel.
When using the cloth I always like to dampen it first. Like I mentioned earlier, always apply the product directly to the cloth and not to the surface itself.
Why is it important to put it on the cloth and not the car?
It’s always a good idea to put it on the cloth for a few reasons. First of all you won’t be using as much SHINE MASTER. For example, when you squirt it on the hood, chances are that the engine has created a lot of heat. The paint will be hot and the product will dry before you have a chance to spread it out. So now you’ve wasted product, there’s more powder dust to remove and you will be rubbing longer to get it off.
It’s best to hold your hand as flat as possible to the surface, and work the product in a circular motion. Do a panel at a time. For example, apply the SHINE MASTER to the fender and then to the door. By that time the fender will dry to a light white haze. Then simply wipe it off to a beautiful gloss.
Some people like to do the whole vehicle and then wipe it off, if that works for you, great; personally, I think it’s easier to do a better job a panel at a time.
You’ve mentioned darker colors a few times, I’ve had trouble with some products streaking on my black vehicle; will I run into that with the SHINE MASTER?
I’ve used and tested a lot of products through the years, and SHINE MASTER is one of best to use on black. Because all paints are not the same, some are going to require a little more attention to achieve that “ultra show gloss.” Sometimes when the humidity is high or it’s extremely hot, it may take a little more rubbing than normal to get it off.
If you would ever run into an application that wanted to leave a shadow or was more difficult to remove, you can wipe the surface down with a wet cloth. What happens is the fluids begin to dry at different rates, thereby leaving a streak until it dries. By wiping it down, you’re balancing out that dry time.
What about faded or dull paint? How does the SHINE MASTER work for that?
When working on faded or oxidized paint, you always want to “rub in” a small test area first. This will determine how much you will have to apply yourself to do the job. I’ll work in one area real hard just to see what it takes to bring out the shine. After working that area, (about the size of a football) you want to take a good look at what you’ve done. Sometimes you realize that you can back off a little, and sometimes you may have to rub it some more.
What do you do if you rub real hard and it isn’t giving you the result you want?
If the polish isn’t giving you the result you want, then you’ll want to use to the FINISH CUT compound. Or if it’s really bad, the TURBO CUT, which is more aggressive.
If it looks faded, why not just start out with the compounds, why test with the SHINE MASTER?
Because a lot of times it’s hard to tell how the paint will respond, and you never want to take off more paint than you have to. You always want to start with the least aggressive product first. Sometimes it can be more work to take out the scratches from a more aggressive compound, than it would be to polish a little more with the SHINE MASTER.
What can I expect for durability? How long is it going to last?
On average you can expect about 3 to 6 months protection. But you have to consider how the product was applied, what condition the finish was in and what it’s been exposed to. A question I have is: How do you know if it’s protecting?
What do you mean? Give me an example.
For example, if the paint is faded and you don’t completely remove the oxidized paint, the application will not bond. A finish exposed to salt spray on the way to work and harsh chemicals at the (nylon brush) car wash is going to dull out much faster than the car driven by a little old lady from Pasadena.
Some people have the mistaken idea that if water doesn’t bead, then the product didn’t last. First of all the SHINE MASTER does need some time to cure. It can take 24 to 48 hours for it to fully cure, depending on the weather and temperature. If you’re in the rain, the morning after you polished the car you see the beads running off the hood. Then you wash it with hard water and it doesn’t bead. Remember, soft water is going to be much gentler than hard water. Just like on our skin. MSDS sheets available on request
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